On Choosing Windows

Custom triple hung window

Choosing windows correctly could become a daunting task; there are many companies to choose from and even after you find the right company, there are lots of window types to consider. The following is meant to give homeowners an orientation of the relevant issues and aspects on this topic. I will discuss five ideas, in more detail:

1-    Choosing a reputable company.

2-    Understanding the relationship between the house’s character and the window’s “look”.

3-    Window types: casement, awning, double hung, sliding.

4-   Understanding the differences between applied mullions, simulated divided lights, and truly divided lights.

5-    Hurricane resistant windows.

The world of residential windows is divided into custom designed, semi-custom, and stock windows. Custom-designed windows are built to the architect’s specifications.  Every shape, mullion, and muntin can be designed to meet specific Owner requirements, window style, and operating mechanisms. Custom-designed windows are the most expensive, but they can also be the most beautiful, as well as the most resistant to wear and tear. They are typically made of wood, bronze, or steel. There are a number of companies in NY that produce custom designed windows; the most popular are: Zeluck and Reilly.

Custom curved windows

 Semi-custom and stock windows have standard mullions and muntins. You can choose standard sizes (stock windows) which typically vary in 4 inch increments or you can customize the window size to suit your opening. Examples of such companies are: Marvin, Andersen, and Pella. Some companies such as Weather Shield only make a composite window consisting of an aluminum or a vinyl clad wood frame facing the exterior and a wood frame facing the interior.

Semi-custom Marvin windows

Weather Shield windows

Comparing the different companies could be confusing, so a way to organize this is to use a spreadsheet. List all the important variables such as: durability of finishes, recommended maintenance schedule, pricing, warranty, impact category, size limitations, frame width, etc. and compare these with all the different manufacturers.

Window manufacturer's comparison sheet

Understanding the relationship between your house type and your window type is crucial when selecting windows.  In general, traditional houses require traditional windows such as double hung or casement, while modernist houses would look better with modernist window types such as awnings, fixed, or sliding.
  

Double hung

Casement

Awning

There are different “styles” within the “traditional” category, such as: Shingle Style, Colonial Revivals, or Greek Revivals. Each style requires a different window expression.  Greek Revival houses typically use double hung windows. Occasionally triple hung window are used, when opening unto a covered porch, so that the window looks like a French casement door but is more authentic to the Greek Revival style than an actual French door would be. Shingle Styles and Colonials may use a combination of double hung and casement windows, depending on their use, and location in the house windows. 

Triple hung windows opening to a porch

French casements opening to a porch

Different window types are favored in different regions of the world depending on climate and customary use. The use of in-swing casement windows and sliders seems to be generally favored in Europe.  Sometimes, houses with these window types also have exterior shutters.  Casement windows allow the user to open the entire window opening. By the same token in a rainy climate these windows offer less flexibility since, even the smallest opening exposes the entire height of the window to water penetration.

Double hung windows tend to be favored in the US. Their practical application is evident in that one can open the top and bottom sashes thereby allowing hotter air to escape from the window top and cooler air to penetrate through the bottom.  This arrangement also offers more protection from water infiltration, even when the window is ajar. Awning windows are useful in certain applications where one does not need a full sash opening but simply some ventilation.  Since they are hinged at the top and open outwards, they are particularly useful when the window is open, even if it is raining. Jalousie windows (a variation on the awning type) are favored in the Caribbean.

Jalousie windows and doors

 

Caribbean interior with jalousie windows

Independently of what type of window you end up with, if your house is traditional you will have mullions.  Mullions give scale to a window as seen from the exterior and to a room as seen from the interior. Large expanses of glass are mute regarding their size as they relate to a person and to the rest of the room. When a window sash is “broken up” into smaller panes you can relate to it better because each pane is roughly the size of your face. There are 3 ways to add mullions to a window. The least expensive and least successful way is to simply glue them to the glass face on the inside or the outside of the sash.  These are called applied muntins and they only give you the silhouette of what a traditional window looks like but, not the authentic look of the window. 

View through mullioned windows

 

View through open glass

The 2 ways to keep a traditional window “look” is by using truly divided lights or simulated divided lights. Truly divided lights do exactly what the term implies and divide each pane separately. This is how windows were built in the old days; an eminently practical solution since glass breakage could be easily repaired without having to change the entire sash. Modern windows are doubled glazed, for energy reasons. When truly divided lights are used on typical sized sashes with double glazing, the individual mullions get too large in proportion to the rest of the sash because, they hold more glass. The problem is solved by using simulated divided lights which keep the mullion size truer to the original sources; these are applied to both the inside and the outside of the glass faces.  This is not the same as using applied mullions because, there is a spacer bar in the space in between each glass pane which makes them look as if they are truly divided. Simulated divided lights are a standard feature of all custom and semi-custom window manufacturers.

Simulated divided lights

Applied muntins

Truly divided lights

 Regarding hurricane resistance, simulated divided lights tend to be more resistant than truly divided lights.  Building codes in coastal areas require hurricane resistant windows to meet a certain category of wind force or hurricane zone. Window manufacturers usually have pre-tested several typical window sizes so that they can ascertain how they perform during a hurricane.  Based on the results of these tests, the assemblies get a rating for certain hurricane zones.  The most restrictive zones, in the US, are in Florida.  It is for that reason that you may hear a manufacturer refer to a window as meeting the “Dade County, Florida, Code”.

Whether you are choosing custom, semi-custom, or stock windows, they are a considerable expense, so it is worthwhile investing a little time in researching your options before you purchase windows.  Keeping in mind the points made will enable you to make more informed choices.

Choosing Plumbing Fixtures

Remodeling or building a new house or apartment brings about a series of decisions which may feel daunting for the Owners or even for some designers.  One such decision is related to bathrooms and kitchens: how to select the correct plumbing fittings. Everyone comes in close contact with plumbing fittings so their visual appearance is as important as architectural hardware (discussed in another post). In general, plumbing fittings refer to faucets as well as the valves which are usually behind the walls.

c 1930 kitchen mixer in brass

c 1930 taps in brass and nickel plated 

There are practical and aesthetic considerations to keep in mind when choosing plumbing fittings. Fittings have been fabricated in brass since the 1800’s. The brass bodies of less expensive fixtures were left un-plated.  Unless they were constantly polished they would develop a brown patina and tarnish so, manufacturers started using polished nickel as an applied plated finish to the brass. Since the nickel is a soft metal, constant polishing eventually led to wearing off the finish and leaving the brass exposed in some areas…an unseemly look.

c 1930 Mueller tap in chrome

 

c 1930 Chicago faucets

In the 1930’s manufacturers switched to polished chrome because the polished surfaces are easy to clean and they stay shinny for a longer period of time; people associated them with hygiene. Today one can choose among many finishes including satin and polished nickel, chrome, brass, oil rubbed bronze, and even gold plating.

There are 4 types of faucet mechanisms: stem, ball, disk, and ceramic cartridge. Stem faucets have been used from the beginning of indoor plumbing and they require rubber 

washers that wear out regularly. Ball and Disk faucets do not require rubber washers and they usually have a single lever which operates by moving up or down to open and close and side to side to regulate the temperature. Ceramic cartridge is the latest invention in faucets.  They are found in the most expensive sets and are beginning to make their way into most quality faucets.  Ceramic cartridges resist wear and tear for a longer time. 

Stem faucet with a rubber washer

Ball faucet

Disk faucet

Ceramic cartridge faucet

Faucets are available in 2 general categories: widespread and centerset. Generally, when space is at a premium, centerset faucets are specified. They are available in single handle or two handle options.  Most two handle type fixtures are 4 inches apart. The majority of residences have ample space for a generous bathroom sink which makes widespread fittings (8 inches apart) more appropriate: you get more room to maneuver, and there are more styles to choose from.

Centerset fixture

Widespread fixture

Regarding showers, most people want an invigorating strong shower, which is generally at odds with the water conservation ethos of the early 21st century. Most consumer reports rate the Speakman Anystream shower head as a very good overall choice.  Many high end manufacturers make a copy in a number of finishes. If you are looking for a rain head type, some consumer reports rate the Moen Velocity, as the best choice.

Speakman shower head

Moen rainhead

By law, showers have to use an anti-scalding device of which there are two types: thermostatic and pressure balanced. Thermostatic shower valves are ideal to use when you want to open several shower or bath outlets simultaneously or when you want to set the temperature and use the on-off to vary the pressure only. It is the more expensive choice of anti-scalding device to use.  Pressure balanced shower valves are ideal when you use a diverter to change among shower or spout outlets. In one movement they control the on-off and the temperature but the water pressure is always the same, i.e. the water is either on or off.

Pressure balanced valve

Thermostatic valve

After these technical considerations are met the primary concern is aesthetic: will the faucet be pleasing to the eye, and sit comfortably in your hand? Several points can be made regarding aesthetics which go beyond individual preferences. The following 2 pictures will serve to illustrate this:

Luxury basin taps

Modestly priced basin taps

Both fittings are similar in material and style to make a fair comparison. Beyond the obvious differences particularly in the handle height and the stop pull, the fixture on the top is arguably more beautiful than the fixture on the bottom.  Its spout is elegantly proportioned, and so is the stop pull. Also the spout on the top is finished with a let fillet (i.e. a straight edge) whereas the one on the bottom looks as if it was sawn off. The cross handles on the top look more integrated than the ones on the bottom which look as if they are glued to a bulbous middle. The base of the handle stem on the top has an alternate succession of round and fillet type moldings in varying sizes and proportions that are pleasing to the eye. The stem shapes of the fixture on the bottom consist in two successive escutcheons that repeat the same shape and the bead echoes it creating a cacophonous theme that results in an unpleasant series of shapes. The fixture on the top costs three times the one on the bottom. One may balk at that cost and debate whether it is justified or not; I leave that decision to the reader. 

 

Architectural Hardware

Architectural hardware is the generic name given to door knobs, door pulls, levers, turn pieces, door stops, hinges, window sash locks, cabinet knobs and locks, pocketing door hardware, latches and catches, surface bolts, etc. While having the practical function of being the interface to open and close doors and windows, they are in effect akin to a building’s jewelry and should be carefully chosen to reinforce and clarify the purpose and hierarchy of rooms within the building. 

Hardware as "building jewelry"

The choice of architectural hardware depends on many factors such as budget, building type, room hierarchy and decoration. In houses, the more public rooms such as the living and dining rooms should have more ornate hardware whereas; prosaic rooms such as the kitchen, mudroom, bathroom or laundry should have simpler hardware.

Ornate knob

Simple knob

Hardware finish also varies according to budget, building type, room hierarchy and decoration. In city apartments, for instance, it is common to use un-lacquered brass or nickel finishes whereas in country houses it may be more appropriate to use oil rubbed bronze.  I recommend un-lacquered brass for the exterior of beach houses too for its durability against the briny air. There are instances when one could use a “split” finish such as in bathrooms or kitchens. Typically the finish on the side facing the bathroom or kitchen matches that of the plumbing fixtures whereas the opposite side matches the finish chosen for the rest of the house.

Door hardware with split finish 

Knobs, levers, and hinges make up the bulk of the architectural hardware used in a residence. Specifying them requires experience and good taste, however there are a number of things that one can keep in mind to make informed choices.

Knobs are made up of two parts: the knob proper and the rose. Knob sizes typically range between 1 7/8” and 2 ¼”, roses have a similar variation. Bigger knobs can be used on a front door. It is important to make sure that the rose keeps a proportional relation to the size of the knob. Knobs are typically centered on the door style though, if the door style is too narrow, you may have to move the knob slightly off center to avoid rapping your knuckles on the door jambs.

The rose should keep a proportional relation to the knob's size

Off center knob in a narrow style door

Levers, like knobs also have two parts: the lever proper and the rose.  On exterior doors, an escutcheon plate is sometimes specified, in lieu of a rose. This keeps the lever and its key hole on the same back plate. In houses, levers are typically not used on interior doors but mostly on the exterior.  This allows the use of multi-point mechanisms which are bolts located inside the door for the purpose of attaching the door to the sill and the head, thereby keeping it in place during hurricane winds. Cremone bolts were used for the same purpose, before the advent of multi-point mechanisms, but they were applied to the door’s interior style; they are still used in many high end houses that use "French doors". Oval knobs can be used in lieu of levers, when combined with cremone bolts.

Cremone bolt

Multi-point locking mechanism

Hinges are typically specified according to their use: butt, paumelle, olive knuckle, harmon, concealed (aka SOSS -or Tektus- hinges), and pivot. Paumelle and olive knuckle hinges are ideal for screen doors since they make it easier to lift the doors off and store them during the winter. Harmon hinges are used when you want to open the door 90 degrees and into a pocket so that it becomes integrated with the wall itself. Concealed hinges make it hard for someone to spot where the door is, so they are ideal for hidden doors. Pivot hinges can be center or offset. Center pivot hinges can sometimes be used on hidden door conditions. Offset pivot hinges are typically used on oversized cabinet doors or upholstered doors.

Paumelle hinge

Olive knuckle hinge

Harmon hinge

Butt hinges are typically used on exterior and interior doors. When specifying butt hinges, finials need to be specified as well. Finials come in many shapes: flat, round, acorn, pineapple, and obelisk are typical shapes.  Finials should also be chosen according to the room’s hierarchy in the building, the more public rooms should get the more ornate finials and the more prosaic rooms should get the simpler ones.

Provincial finial

Urn finial

Button finial

Choosing the right hardware for the building type  and room takes knowledge and patience. While hardware is dictated by use, its choice is also influenced by taste, and decorum.  Dressing appropriately for an occasion can also be thought of as a practical matter. The accessories, which accompany the dress however, are as important as the dress itself and need to be chosen carefully with taste and decorum, a good analogy to keep in mind when choosing architectural hardware.

Apartments for Better Living

This post will focus on apartments in New York City because that is where I have worked most of my professional life, and I thoroughly enjoy designing them. 

The issues related to apartment design can be generally classified into 3 categories: design, technical, and permit related. The broad subject of design is influenced by personal predilections, functionality, and the building's architecture. Technical issues range from how to deal with heating, ventilation and air-conditioning (HVAC), placement of the plumbing fixtures, audio-visual, lighting, and electrical considerations. While obtaining a construction permit is a must, coop or condo board approval is equally important for buildings in NYC.  So ample review time must be part of the project's schedule.

Apartments in NYC range the gammut of design expressions and functional needs, so it is very difficult to make general observations that can be applicable to most, if not all, cases. Typically, NYC apartment buildings are classified as pre-war or post war. Pre-war buildings are much sought after since they tend to have higher ceilings, and spacious rooms for kitchens, dining, and living. These rooms articulate their walls with crowns, wainscots, and base mouldings. Post-war buildings tend to be more utilitarian with lower ceilings and undifferentiated spaces where the living, dining, and kitchen are sometimes combined. These spaces also tend to have minimal moldings. 

Pre-war apartment

Post-war apartment

Most NYC apartment buildings are framed in concrete which sometimes yields irregularly spaced beams and/or columns particularly when there is a transfer beam. Transfer beams occur typically at building setbacks, and penthouse setbacks for terraces. These exterior building issues can have an effect on the apartment's interior. Other exterior building conditions such as mansard roofs can also affect the apartment interior.

Mansard roofs may affect the interior



Transfer beams may affect the interior

When considering HVAC, it is not enough to simply provide the necessary BTU's to heat and cool the rooms. Careful attention should be given to noise and dew point issues. NYC has a noise ordinance which states that noise due to the operation of a circulation device, not exceed an overall noise level of 42 dBA, as measured a distance of 3 feet inside an open window (or door) of a residential dwelling. This can impact the location of a mechanical room, thereby impacting, to some degree, the interior layout. Since most "post war" apartment buildings have low ceilings, dropping a ceiling for air conditioning equipment is not an option.  In those cases walls can be widened to hide the ducts and air grills may be located over door frames.

AC grill over transom door

Dew point issues are of particular importance in older buildings. These were typically built with exterior load bearing walls composed of several wythes of brick or terracota masonry units. In this type of construction, the dew point occurs within the hollow bricks or terracotta units. A result of modern energy codes is that the building's management usually requires insulation added to these exterior walls. When that happens the dew point is typically moved to the inside of the apartment and unless this is properly dealt with, it can lead to mold and the eventual deterioration of the interior finishes. Several combined strategies can be used to deal with this such as: using semi rigid insulation instead of batt or rigid, using low cellulose structural board in lieu of regular sheetrock, and providing as much ventilation within the wall cavity as possible.

Great apartments are invariably the result of a successful collaboration between the Owner, Decorator, Contractor, and the Architect (plus all the other consultants that make up the design team such as engineers, lighting consultants, acousticians, AV consultants, exterior envelope consultants, and the building architect). When done well, apartments can be a source of joy for the occupants for years to come in addition to potentially increasing their property's value.