Choosing Plumbing Fixtures

Remodeling or building a new house or apartment brings about a series of decisions which may feel daunting for the Owners or even for some designers.  One such decision is related to bathrooms and kitchens: how to select the correct plumbing fittings. Everyone comes in close contact with plumbing fittings so their visual appearance is as important as architectural hardware (discussed in another post). In general, plumbing fittings refer to faucets as well as the valves which are usually behind the walls.

c 1930 kitchen mixer in brass

c 1930 taps in brass and nickel plated 

There are practical and aesthetic considerations to keep in mind when choosing plumbing fittings. Fittings have been fabricated in brass since the 1800’s. The brass bodies of less expensive fixtures were left un-plated.  Unless they were constantly polished they would develop a brown patina and tarnish so, manufacturers started using polished nickel as an applied plated finish to the brass. Since the nickel is a soft metal, constant polishing eventually led to wearing off the finish and leaving the brass exposed in some areas…an unseemly look.

c 1930 Mueller tap in chrome

 

c 1930 Chicago faucets

In the 1930’s manufacturers switched to polished chrome because the polished surfaces are easy to clean and they stay shinny for a longer period of time; people associated them with hygiene. Today one can choose among many finishes including satin and polished nickel, chrome, brass, oil rubbed bronze, and even gold plating.

There are 4 types of faucet mechanisms: stem, ball, disk, and ceramic cartridge. Stem faucets have been used from the beginning of indoor plumbing and they require rubber 

washers that wear out regularly. Ball and Disk faucets do not require rubber washers and they usually have a single lever which operates by moving up or down to open and close and side to side to regulate the temperature. Ceramic cartridge is the latest invention in faucets.  They are found in the most expensive sets and are beginning to make their way into most quality faucets.  Ceramic cartridges resist wear and tear for a longer time. 

Stem faucet with a rubber washer

Ball faucet

Disk faucet

Ceramic cartridge faucet

Faucets are available in 2 general categories: widespread and centerset. Generally, when space is at a premium, centerset faucets are specified. They are available in single handle or two handle options.  Most two handle type fixtures are 4 inches apart. The majority of residences have ample space for a generous bathroom sink which makes widespread fittings (8 inches apart) more appropriate: you get more room to maneuver, and there are more styles to choose from.

Centerset fixture

Widespread fixture

Regarding showers, most people want an invigorating strong shower, which is generally at odds with the water conservation ethos of the early 21st century. Most consumer reports rate the Speakman Anystream shower head as a very good overall choice.  Many high end manufacturers make a copy in a number of finishes. If you are looking for a rain head type, some consumer reports rate the Moen Velocity, as the best choice.

Speakman shower head

Moen rainhead

By law, showers have to use an anti-scalding device of which there are two types: thermostatic and pressure balanced. Thermostatic shower valves are ideal to use when you want to open several shower or bath outlets simultaneously or when you want to set the temperature and use the on-off to vary the pressure only. It is the more expensive choice of anti-scalding device to use.  Pressure balanced shower valves are ideal when you use a diverter to change among shower or spout outlets. In one movement they control the on-off and the temperature but the water pressure is always the same, i.e. the water is either on or off.

Pressure balanced valve

Thermostatic valve

After these technical considerations are met the primary concern is aesthetic: will the faucet be pleasing to the eye, and sit comfortably in your hand? Several points can be made regarding aesthetics which go beyond individual preferences. The following 2 pictures will serve to illustrate this:

Luxury basin taps

Modestly priced basin taps

Both fittings are similar in material and style to make a fair comparison. Beyond the obvious differences particularly in the handle height and the stop pull, the fixture on the top is arguably more beautiful than the fixture on the bottom.  Its spout is elegantly proportioned, and so is the stop pull. Also the spout on the top is finished with a let fillet (i.e. a straight edge) whereas the one on the bottom looks as if it was sawn off. The cross handles on the top look more integrated than the ones on the bottom which look as if they are glued to a bulbous middle. The base of the handle stem on the top has an alternate succession of round and fillet type moldings in varying sizes and proportions that are pleasing to the eye. The stem shapes of the fixture on the bottom consist in two successive escutcheons that repeat the same shape and the bead echoes it creating a cacophonous theme that results in an unpleasant series of shapes. The fixture on the top costs three times the one on the bottom. One may balk at that cost and debate whether it is justified or not; I leave that decision to the reader. 

 

Architectural Hardware

Architectural hardware is the generic name given to door knobs, door pulls, levers, turn pieces, door stops, hinges, window sash locks, cabinet knobs and locks, pocketing door hardware, latches and catches, surface bolts, etc. While having the practical function of being the interface to open and close doors and windows, they are in effect akin to a building’s jewelry and should be carefully chosen to reinforce and clarify the purpose and hierarchy of rooms within the building. 

Hardware as "building jewelry"

The choice of architectural hardware depends on many factors such as budget, building type, room hierarchy and decoration. In houses, the more public rooms such as the living and dining rooms should have more ornate hardware whereas; prosaic rooms such as the kitchen, mudroom, bathroom or laundry should have simpler hardware.

Ornate knob

Simple knob

Hardware finish also varies according to budget, building type, room hierarchy and decoration. In city apartments, for instance, it is common to use un-lacquered brass or nickel finishes whereas in country houses it may be more appropriate to use oil rubbed bronze.  I recommend un-lacquered brass for the exterior of beach houses too for its durability against the briny air. There are instances when one could use a “split” finish such as in bathrooms or kitchens. Typically the finish on the side facing the bathroom or kitchen matches that of the plumbing fixtures whereas the opposite side matches the finish chosen for the rest of the house.

Door hardware with split finish 

Knobs, levers, and hinges make up the bulk of the architectural hardware used in a residence. Specifying them requires experience and good taste, however there are a number of things that one can keep in mind to make informed choices.

Knobs are made up of two parts: the knob proper and the rose. Knob sizes typically range between 1 7/8” and 2 ¼”, roses have a similar variation. Bigger knobs can be used on a front door. It is important to make sure that the rose keeps a proportional relation to the size of the knob. Knobs are typically centered on the door style though, if the door style is too narrow, you may have to move the knob slightly off center to avoid rapping your knuckles on the door jambs.

The rose should keep a proportional relation to the knob's size

Off center knob in a narrow style door

Levers, like knobs also have two parts: the lever proper and the rose.  On exterior doors, an escutcheon plate is sometimes specified, in lieu of a rose. This keeps the lever and its key hole on the same back plate. In houses, levers are typically not used on interior doors but mostly on the exterior.  This allows the use of multi-point mechanisms which are bolts located inside the door for the purpose of attaching the door to the sill and the head, thereby keeping it in place during hurricane winds. Cremone bolts were used for the same purpose, before the advent of multi-point mechanisms, but they were applied to the door’s interior style; they are still used in many high end houses that use "French doors". Oval knobs can be used in lieu of levers, when combined with cremone bolts.

Cremone bolt

Multi-point locking mechanism

Hinges are typically specified according to their use: butt, paumelle, olive knuckle, harmon, concealed (aka SOSS -or Tektus- hinges), and pivot. Paumelle and olive knuckle hinges are ideal for screen doors since they make it easier to lift the doors off and store them during the winter. Harmon hinges are used when you want to open the door 90 degrees and into a pocket so that it becomes integrated with the wall itself. Concealed hinges make it hard for someone to spot where the door is, so they are ideal for hidden doors. Pivot hinges can be center or offset. Center pivot hinges can sometimes be used on hidden door conditions. Offset pivot hinges are typically used on oversized cabinet doors or upholstered doors.

Paumelle hinge

Olive knuckle hinge

Harmon hinge

Butt hinges are typically used on exterior and interior doors. When specifying butt hinges, finials need to be specified as well. Finials come in many shapes: flat, round, acorn, pineapple, and obelisk are typical shapes.  Finials should also be chosen according to the room’s hierarchy in the building, the more public rooms should get the more ornate finials and the more prosaic rooms should get the simpler ones.

Provincial finial

Urn finial

Button finial

Choosing the right hardware for the building type  and room takes knowledge and patience. While hardware is dictated by use, its choice is also influenced by taste, and decorum.  Dressing appropriately for an occasion can also be thought of as a practical matter. The accessories, which accompany the dress however, are as important as the dress itself and need to be chosen carefully with taste and decorum, a good analogy to keep in mind when choosing architectural hardware.

Apartments for Better Living

This post will focus on apartments in New York City because that is where I have worked most of my professional life, and I thoroughly enjoy designing them. 

The issues related to apartment design can be generally classified into 3 categories: design, technical, and permit related. The broad subject of design is influenced by personal predilections, functionality, and the building's architecture. Technical issues range from how to deal with heating, ventilation and air-conditioning (HVAC), placement of the plumbing fixtures, audio-visual, lighting, and electrical considerations. While obtaining a construction permit is a must, coop or condo board approval is equally important for buildings in NYC.  So ample review time must be part of the project's schedule.

Apartments in NYC range the gammut of design expressions and functional needs, so it is very difficult to make general observations that can be applicable to most, if not all, cases. Typically, NYC apartment buildings are classified as pre-war or post war. Pre-war buildings are much sought after since they tend to have higher ceilings, and spacious rooms for kitchens, dining, and living. These rooms articulate their walls with crowns, wainscots, and base mouldings. Post-war buildings tend to be more utilitarian with lower ceilings and undifferentiated spaces where the living, dining, and kitchen are sometimes combined. These spaces also tend to have minimal moldings. 

Pre-war apartment

Post-war apartment

Most NYC apartment buildings are framed in concrete which sometimes yields irregularly spaced beams and/or columns particularly when there is a transfer beam. Transfer beams occur typically at building setbacks, and penthouse setbacks for terraces. These exterior building issues can have an effect on the apartment's interior. Other exterior building conditions such as mansard roofs can also affect the apartment interior.

Mansard roofs may affect the interior



Transfer beams may affect the interior

When considering HVAC, it is not enough to simply provide the necessary BTU's to heat and cool the rooms. Careful attention should be given to noise and dew point issues. NYC has a noise ordinance which states that noise due to the operation of a circulation device, not exceed an overall noise level of 42 dBA, as measured a distance of 3 feet inside an open window (or door) of a residential dwelling. This can impact the location of a mechanical room, thereby impacting, to some degree, the interior layout. Since most "post war" apartment buildings have low ceilings, dropping a ceiling for air conditioning equipment is not an option.  In those cases walls can be widened to hide the ducts and air grills may be located over door frames.

AC grill over transom door

Dew point issues are of particular importance in older buildings. These were typically built with exterior load bearing walls composed of several wythes of brick or terracota masonry units. In this type of construction, the dew point occurs within the hollow bricks or terracotta units. A result of modern energy codes is that the building's management usually requires insulation added to these exterior walls. When that happens the dew point is typically moved to the inside of the apartment and unless this is properly dealt with, it can lead to mold and the eventual deterioration of the interior finishes. Several combined strategies can be used to deal with this such as: using semi rigid insulation instead of batt or rigid, using low cellulose structural board in lieu of regular sheetrock, and providing as much ventilation within the wall cavity as possible.

Great apartments are invariably the result of a successful collaboration between the Owner, Decorator, Contractor, and the Architect (plus all the other consultants that make up the design team such as engineers, lighting consultants, acousticians, AV consultants, exterior envelope consultants, and the building architect). When done well, apartments can be a source of joy for the occupants for years to come in addition to potentially increasing their property's value.

House Refinements

What is the difference between architecture and building? For some, the difference is related to the structure's use, i.e: all public buildings are architecture whereas, all domestic or industrial buildings are simply places for people to take shelter from the weather. Yet there are beautiful pavilions, small buildings, and houses which are considered great works of architecture.  For others, the significance of the structure is what separates architecture from mere building. This would suggest that the Philadelphia Waterworks by Benjamin Latrobe is mere shelter for waterworks equipment, whereas Snow White's Castle (a very significant structure for many) is architecture - and we know that is not the case! Monticello is simply a house, albeit a beautifully crafted one. It is one of the most iconic pieces of architecture in America.  Its architect, Thomas Jefferson was not only the third President of the United States but also, a refined man who traveled Europe and learned from the best examples before embarking on his own architectural pursuits. We propose that what separates architecture from mere building is architectural refinement.

Monticello by Thomas Jefferson

Philadelphia Waterworks by Benjamin Latrobe

In modernist architecture the idea of refinement is seen in buildings by Mies van der Rohe, Frank Lloyd Wright, Louis Khan and Richard Meier, among many others.  Wright's materials and proportions, especially in houses like Robie House and Fallingwater, demonstrate refinement in proportion, scale, and in how different materials come together. Louis Khan's use of brick in his buildings at Chandigarh, his use of stainless steel and wood panels on the exterior of the Yale British Art Gallery, are very refined uses of those materials in architecture. Richard Meier's three dimensional geometrical essays in white painted wood, glass, and steel and their painstaking detailing is certainly among the best that any one architect could achieve in a lifetime.


Robie House by Frank Lloyd Wright



Douglas House by Richard Meier

But what about traditional houses, are they architecture or simply building? We suggest that the same answer applies to traditional houses; what can make them transcend into architecture is their refinement. Houses must accommodate a program (i.e. rooms based on needs) into a predetermined area but only those that do so with refinement are considered excellent works of architecture. Our service as architects and designers of houses consists in creating beautifully proportioned buildings fitting in with their surroundings and beautifully proportioned rooms seamlessly integrated with the specific client requirements and decoration.


Gunston Hall, a Georgian house

A Dutch Colonial house

Most traditional houses today are a developement of a Colonial Revival type.  These vary by regional use which is influenced not only by climatic factors, but also by cultural ones: Victorian, Tudor, Georgian, Federal, Shingle, Dutch, Cape Cod, etc; the names vary according to region and local usage, but the idea is the same.  We decide which type is culturally relevant, depending on where we are designing.  One of my mentors, Jaque Robertson, who began his architectural career as a "moderninst" and later developed into a "traditionalist", talks about the type's "DNA" rather than referring to these as styles.  Conceptualized this way, the architecture regains its tradition and its freedom since one is not bound by rigid rules of "style" but, one is free to invent while keeping the "DNA" of the type.  Since there are many expressions within the language of traditional architecture, there are also many expressions of architectural refinements. What follows is a discussion of some of these refinements.

Graduated clapboard siding at the Mather House



Graduated roofing slates

While the massing of traditional houses is composed of simple volumes, the materials used on the roofs and walls vary as much as budgets will allow. Slate roof shingles would not be used on Cape Cod houses but they would be entirely appropriate for a brick or stone Georgian house. Slate roofs should be graduated so that the thicker shingles are used towards the bottom of the roof while the thinner ones are used towards the top.  There are also instances where the wall siding exposure is also graduated so that the wider pieces are used at the bottom, and the narrower ones at the top of the wall.  One such instance occurs at the Mather House in Connecticut (see photo above- courtesy of ColonialSense.com). More commonly however, siding variances simply accommodate the sizes of windows so that the siding begins and ends on a whole board.

Larger windows on the lower floor

Colunmns with entasis

In most traditional houses windows are typically smaller on the upper floor and larger on the lower floor, not only in response to the uses (more public on the first, more private on the second) but also, because this makes the building look more elegant. Entry porticoes typically have columns with entasis which also renders them more elegant than simple tubes. In houses, entasis starts from the bottom of the columns instead of a third up the shaft to enhance the feeling of verticality. Also, instead of sitting the columns on a wood plinth, it is better to support them on bluestone plinths to avoid rot and give a greater sense of strength and stability. These columns will support an entablature which in turn can support a pediment. The entablature aligns with the upper necking of the columns which means that the porch footprint is slightly larger than the footprint of the roof covering the porch.

In shingle type houses, it is customary to use Alaskan yellow cedar shingles on the roofs and bleached western red cedar shingles on the walls. When the shingles weather to a gray color, the different wood makes the ensemble look more interesting because of the slightly different shades on the roof than on the wall. In many instances, the walls and roofs are built with an outward bend at the bottom edges; this makes the buildings look lively rather than staid.


Alaskan yellow cedar shingles on roofs and bleached western red cedar shingles on walls

In stone houses, even when rubble is used, all the openings should have a properly proportioned lintel and sill.  In some cases, coursed stone walls can also be graduated so that the coursing varies slightly from wider stones at the bottom to narrower ones at the top; this enhances the feeling of height in smaller buildings.  This effect can be observed at the Freer Gallery in Washington D.C. Charles Platt designed the Freer in 1916; by then, he had successfully completed about 30 houses.

Details on a house by Charles Platt

Freer Gallery by Charles Platt

Carefully coordinating the proportions of all these elements and in turn coordinating them with the particular "DNA" of the architectural type is the job of the architect.  When done well, it is a continual source of joy and discovery for both the owner and the architect.

Townhouses for better living

Most townhouses in New York City were built between the 1860's and the the 1930's and vary greatly in architectural expression. Some townhouses are also called brownstones; this term refers to those that were constructed with sandstone of reddish-brownish color which was commonly used as a building material at the turn of the 20th Century on the East Coast. As a typology, New York City townhouses are usually narrow buildings with three to four stories and a basement or garden floor. The floor plan's organization is dictated by window placement. Since the sidewall of the buildings abut, windows are only possible on the front and back walls. 

Typical townhouse plan

 That is the reason for locating the main public rooms such as the living or dining, fronting the street and the more private rooms such as the bedrooms, facing the garden or back of the building.  Service rooms such as kitchens, bathrooms, closets, and stair halls end up in the middle of the building. These rooms can have lower ceilings, allowing space for mechanical systems and transfer of the plumbing pipes above them. The central stair hall usually has a skylight at the top of the stairs to bring light to the center of the floor plan.


Townhouse front stoop

Brownstones typically have a front stoop which connects the street to the parlor or main floor, thereby becoming a nexus between the public and the private realms. Stoops are your first impression as you walk by the building and they set the character for the architecture. There is no substitute for a properly scaled stone banister with stone balusters and properly proportioned columns to greet you as you pass the threshold into the front hall. 

Front hall

The front hall leads to the stair, which can be an arresting design element; it also opens unto the parlor room via a pair of tall double doors. With ceilings as tall as 12 feet or more, the parlor floor can easily accommodate the main rooms of the house such as living, dining, library, or other entertaining rooms. In fact, tall ceilings is one of the reasons townhouses are a popular residential building type.

A few steps down from the sidewalk, the basement or the garden floor, has access to the garden which can be a landscaped sanctuary in the midst of the bustling city. Though this floor has the lowest ceiling heights, between 8 and 9 feet, it can be the best location for certain recreation rooms of the house such as the gym, billiard room, or media room, as well as the kitchen, laundry room and other less visible rooms of the house.

Kitchen

Townhouse interiors tend to be chockfull of columns, wainscoting, paneling, bookcases, as well as beautiful floors and ceilings; this millwork is what gives townhouses their character. In many instances, the central staircase has beautifully turned balusters and handrails running to the top floors. 

Central staircase

The millwork is hierarchically organized so that the more public rooms have the most intricate and elaborate window and door casings, crown and base moldings. The millwork in the parlor room is the grandest and most intricate of the house. Moldings get progressively simpler and less ornate as one moves through the corridors to reach the bedrooms and baths. Millwork character cannot be appropriately understood without reference to scale. Scale is a measurement of the size of something relative to the size of something else and ultimately relative to the size of a person.

Parlor's elaborate millwork

Bathroom's simpler millwork

When a room is appropriately scaled you feel good in it, when it is not, you feel less good. So, if you have a room with very tall windows (as usually happens on the exterior rooms of a townhouse) the doors on the opposite interior wall should be commensurately tall, sometimes with a transom above them. Making bigger doors that relate to the building’s exterior windows is a choice that triggers another choice: the relative size of the casing around the doors. This “calibration” of the architecture is what makes townhouse architectural design a three dimensional symphony which is fun to compose; when done appropriately, it is deeply satisfying for both the architect and the occupants.